Excerpts from Claiborne S. Young's Cruising Guide to COASTAL SOUTH CAROLINA & GEORGIA: Georgetown Many thanks to Claiborne Young for contributing to our website. If you would like more information about his Cruising Guide Series, or wish to order any of his works, click here.

Sitting astride the confluence of Winyah Bay and Sampit River, present-day Georgetown constantly calls to mind its storied past. Long the most important South Carolina port north of Charleston, the town retains the character of bygone years alongside a new spirit of success. Fortunate cruising boaters who make Georgetown a port of call will find a quiet, beautiful, and historic town waiting to greet them. Prior to the Civil War, Georgetown was the seat of a fabulously rich rice culture still remembered with pride and romance. Go quietly as you pass, and perhaps you may still hear the delicate tinkle of crystal glasses at an elegant garden party or the hoofbeats of the master's horse as he rides to check his fields in the early-morning mist. The heritage of the rice culture is an almost tangible entity here, and you cannot fully appreciate Georgetown and its surrounding streams without an understanding of this remarkable era. Anyone who takes a few moments to study the charts will realize that Georgetown is ideally situated to take advantage of waterborne commerce. The waters of the Black, Pee Dee, Waccamaw, and Sampit Rivers all converge at the port to form Winyah Bay. Together, these waters present a multitude of cruising opportunities for the pleasure boater. The various streams for the most part quite deep and easily navigable offer many miles of isolated cruising and a host of overnight anchorage opportunities, as well as a fair share of delightful surprises. Just when it seems that you are truly in the middle of nowhere, the next bend of the river or creek reveals one of the fabulous plantation houses that have survived the trials of the years. It would take a very hard-bitten boater not to be smitten by the charms of Georgetown's rivers. Winyah Bay provides reliable access to the open sea and cruising opportunities of its own. Good facilities are found on the southern shore, and side trips to several historical sites are possible. The waters surrounding Georgetown offer the state's widest array of cruising opportunities north of Charleston. It's enough to set any true cruiser to dreaming. The newly rebuilt town waterfront is simply bursting with shoreside attractions, including a potpourri of fine restaurants and interesting shops. The waterfront, coupled with the wonderful homes of Georgetown's historical district, should inspire every boater to put a red circle around this delightful port of call. Those who rush by without making the acquaintance of Georgetown and its rivers will miss one of the greatest cruising opportunities in all of South Carolina. What a delight it is to spend an evening, a week, or a month docked on the Georgetown waterfront! Snug in your slip, docked in the shadow of the Rice Museum's historic clock tower, you might be excused for forgetting that you are in the twentieth century. Fortunate indeed is the cruising boater who finds his way along Sampit River to Georgetown. After those glowing words, it must be noted that Georgetown has one problem for visitors. A large paper mill is located on the southwestern portion of the Georgetown loop along the lower Sampit River. Fortunately, the prevailing winds tend to keep the worst of the smell away from the city, but it's only fair to note that the mill is there. When the fickle wind chooses not to cooperate, the smell of progress is not so sweet. Most of Georgetown's facilities, including the new city docks, are located on the northeastern portion of Sampit River's northern loop (north of flashing daybeacon #42). This portion of the stream comprises the town's principal waterfront. While all the marinas are fairly small, they are quite friendly, and most cater to transient boaters. Georgetown Marinas Moving southeast to northwest, the first facility you will come upon is Hazzard's Marina. This facility has taken on a definite commercial flavor since this writer last visited Georgetown. While transients are occasionally accepted for overnight or temporary dockage, this practice is now clearly the exception rather than the rule. Boaters who do secure a berth will tie their lines to old, fixed wooden piers with water connections and 30- and 50-amp power connections. Depths alongside run 6(r) to 8 feet. Gasoline can be purchased dockside; surprisingly, diesel fuel is not available. Hazzard's Marina offers mechanical repairs for both gasoline and diesel power plants, as well as haul-out service via a 30-ton marine railway. As is the case from all the waterfront marinas, the historical district and the newly revitalized downtown business section are just a quick step away. Moving upstream, you will next find The Boat Shed Marina (formerly Georgetown Exxon Marina) guarding the northeastern banks. This ultrafriendly facility gladly accepts transients of all varieties. Low-water depths at the innermost slips run around 7 feet, while boaters will find 10- to 12-foot soundings at the outer docks. Berths at the fixed wooden piers feature all power and water connections. Small power craft can moor to a single floating dock. Gasoline and diesel fuel can be purchased, and visiting cruisers will be pleased to find showers on the premises. The marina maintains a medium-sized ship's store and a dry-stack storage building just behind the docks. Mechanical repairs for gasoline engines (mostly outboards and I/O's) are offered. Small boats can be hauled out via a forklift. This is another of Georgetown's small but likable marinas where visiting cruisers can expect a warm and knowledgeable welcome. Cathou's Boat Yard (843-546-5441) is just beside The Boat Shed Marina. Some below-waterline repairs can be arranged here (haul-outs are on a marine railway), but the greatest attraction at Cathou's is the fresh seafood that is often for sale. This writer and his mate were amused one evening to see a local citizen pounding on the shop's door seemingly long after business hours. To our great surprise, the door swung open, an old yellow light was switched on, and flounder caught that same day was soon forthcoming. The last commercial pleasure-craft center on the principal Georgetown waterfront is Harborwalk Marina (formerly Gulf Auto Marina). Harborwalk's management continues Georgetown's friendly tradition. Transients are welcomed with open arms. Since the onslaught of Hurricane Hugo in 1989, fuel (gasoline and diesel) at Harborwalk has been dispensed via long hoses stretched from shoreside tanker trucks. This is not really a problem, however. We had no trouble topping off our tanks with the aid of the accommodating staff. Transient and resident berths at Harborwalk Marina feature fixed wooden piers and good depths plus full power and water connections. Shoreside showers are available, and mechanical repairs are in the offing for both gasoline and diesel power plants. Some mechanical work is farmed out to local independent technicians. A laundromat is located 8 blocks away. Future plans call for the installation of a waste pump-out facility, but the opening date for this service could not be determined at the time of this writing. Harborwalk Marina is the closest of the commercial waterfront marinas to the downtown historical and business district. Cruisers who want to avoid walking more than necessary may want to take this advantage into account. Georgetown's largest and most modern marina is not located on the town waterfront. Georgetown Landing Marina is found on Pee Dee River's western shore just south of the U.S. 17 bridge, some 1.1 nautical miles northeast of the ICW's junction daybeacon #W. This fine facility was totally devastated by Hurricane Hugo but now features all-new modern slips at both floating and fixed piers. Boaters can count on minimum depths of 10 feet on the well-marked approach channel from the ICW, with 6 to 20 feet of water dockside. Transients are eagerly accepted at the marina's piers, which feature full power and water connections. Spotlessly clean shoreside showers and a complete on-site laundromat are at hand. Diesel fuel, gasoline, and waste pump-out service are all available. The marina can usually arrange mechanical repairs through local independent contractors. A well-stocked ship's and variety store overlooks the dockage basin. Georgetown Landing Marina used to be enclosed by a partially submerged breakwater composed of old automobile tires. Most of this barrier was destroyed by the hurricane, and it has been replaced only on the south side of the harbor. Land's End Restaurant sits perched just behind the piers at Georgetown Landing Marina. It is a very pleasant spot to rest after a long day of cruising. The restaurant's large plate-glass windows look out over the marina and Pee Dee River. It's a 15- to 20-minute walk from Georgetown Landing Marina to the historical district and downtown section, but those used to long strolls will find it child's play. If you prefer, taxis are available. Call Stadium Taxi Service (843-546-5550), Friendly Cab Company (843-546-6315), or Moonlight Taxi Service (843-527-4441). Downtown Georgetown and Harborwalk Upstream from Harborwalk Marina, the Georgetown waterfront has undergone a remarkable transformation. Where there was once only a small city pier that did not allow overnight dockage, most of the town waterfront has been magnificently renovated and incorporated into a lovely boardwalk complex which goes by the name of Harborwalk. The large green area in the center of the development is known as Francis Marion Park. Two additional parks are located at either end of the Harborwalk complex. Three sets of floating piers associated with the Harborwalk project readily serve the needs of visiting cruisers. Mooring to the long fixed-face docks lining the entire Harborwalk project is not allowed. During many visits, this writer has usually found the first (southeasternmost) set of floating docks, just behind the Rice Museum, and the second pier in the middle of the Harborwalk complex (abeam of Francis Marion Park) to be more appropriate for cruising-sized vessels than the moorings farther upstream. While dockage for cruising-sized craft is allowed at these piers during inclement weather or when some difficulty is in the offing, it is usually best to anchor-off and then dinghy ashore. Depths alongside are a very impressive 9 to 13 feet at low water, but no power or water connections or other marine services are available at the city piers themselves. Of course, it is only a short jog back downstream to one of the commercial marinas if you need fuel or repair services. Showers are not currently available at the city docks. The local Piggly Wiggly supermarket will be glad to dispatch a car to pick up and return cruisers who need to stock up their larders. Give them a call at (843) 546-5445 or take a taxi (see the numbers under Georgetown Landing Marina above). A laundromat located at the corner of Church and Cleland Streets can be reached via a five-block walk. The Georgetown Public Library is located directly across the street from the laundromat. With all these wonderful amenities, boaters can anchor or dock at Harborwalk confidently, with the added advantage of being moored in the heart of the revitalized downtown district. As mentioned above, anchoring off the Harborwalk docks is encouraged. Happily, there are not yet any restrictions on this practice, as is all too often true in present-day Florida. Be sure to leave plenty of room in the channel by favoring the southwestern banks when you drop the hook. Show an anchor light! Depths run at least 10 feet. You may even want to consider a Bahamian-style mooring to minimize your swinging room, not because the anchorage is cramped, but to avoid swinging into the channel's mid-width should the wind and/or tide change. Once the hook is down, it's a simple matter to dinghy ashore and tie up to one of the floating piers before exploring the downtown area. Protection from inclement weather is quite good. Keeping pace with the Harborwalk complex is a wonderful revitalization of Georgetown's downtown business district. Thanks to this district and the community's enchanting historic residential section (see below), Georgetown can boast of attractions second to none in northeastern South Carolina. Front Street runs parallel to the downtown Georgetown waterfront. This byway has been completely rebuilt over the last several years, with wider sidewalks and numerous planters. Front Street is also home to many fine shops and restaurants. Harbor Specialties (732 Front Street, 843-527-3229), owned and managed by this writer's good friends Len Anderson and Susan Sanders, is a must stop for every cruising visitor. Specializing in personalized nautical clothing, this well-managed and fully outfitted shop offers something of interest to anyone journeying on the water. This writer should also note in passing that Len and Susan have taken it upon themselves to formulate and deliver a welcome packet to every boater anchoring off Harborwalk. This delightful package is filled with information about local businesses and services. Be sure to get yours upon arriving in Georgetown. Cruisers interested in learning more about local history or just finding the latest Tom Clancy novel should check out Mark Twain Bookstore (723 Front Street, 843-546-8212). This writer has always found a stroll through this delightfully ramshackle old building to be a genuine delight. As you are wending your way down Front Street, don't be surprised to sniff the heavenly aroma of baking bread. Follow your nose to the Kudzu Bakery (714 Front Street, 843-527-7844). Here, you will find not only fresh bread but some of the most scrumptious chocolate chip cookies imaginable. Just next door to Kudzu, Miss Emma Jane's (716 Front Street, 843-546-7844) offers gourmet coffees, teas, and other gifts. There is even a tearoom in the back. Two gift shops of note are The Osprey's Nest (711 Front Street, 843-546-5877) and Pinckney's Exchange (709 Front Street, 843-527-6664). Both firms offer a wide variety of tasteful gifts which should delight even the most discriminating customer. Georgetown Restaurants Famished cruisers will most certainly want to make the acquaintance of Thomas's Cafe (703 Front Street, 843-546-7776), hard by the historic Rice Museum, for breakfast or lunch. This longtime favorite serves some of the finest down-home Low Country cuisine you will ever enjoy. This writer particularly recommends the hot cakes for breakfast. The venerable River Room Restaurant (802 Front Street, 843-527-4110) once overlooked what is now the northwestern tip of Harborwalk. Several years ago, this excellent dining spot moved into larger quarters astride the midsection of the town waterfront, just beside Francis Marion Park. It is conveniently located behind Harborwalk's middle set of floating docks. The seafood is absolutely extraordinary, whether you choose char-grilled catch of the day or a more elaborate crab casserole. Don't miss the South Carolina shrimp-and-grits appetizer, and (if you have room left) the peanut butter pie for dessert. You simply can't go wrong, no matter what your choice may be. To say the least, this writer gives the River Room Restaurant his highest recommendation. A second outstanding restaurant in Georgetown is the Rice Paddy (408 Duke Street, 843-546-2021). Cruisers will need to trek four or five blocks from the waterfront to reach this dining spot, but the extra effort will be more than justified. Again, the food here is all that any patron could ask for. If you are into lamb, the Rack of Lamb Moutarde is to die for, and (if it is available during your visit) the Scallops au Gratin are memorable. There are many other succulent choices, so bring a good appetite along. Another interesting dinner choice is Daniels (713 Front Street, 843-546-4377), on the west side of the street between the River Room Restaurant and the Rice Museum. This is a more informal dining choice, with waterfront tables available during fair weather. Entree choices range from burgers to grilled salmon. Anyone for a tearoom repast? Well, if so, stop by The Pink Magnolia (719 Front Street, 843-527-6506). The decor is as ritzy as it gets, and the food is nothing to sneeze at either. Don't miss the shrimp salad. For something really different, make a call on the Orange Blossom Cafe (107 Orange Street, 843-527-5060). This little cafe specializes in Greek dishes, and residents swear by its food. For more information, check at the helpful Georgetown Chamber of Commerce and Visitor's Center (800-777-7705), now located on the corner of Front and Broad Streets. The people there will be glad to furnish you with useful information. To summarize, the downtown Georgetown business district has undergone a rebirth during the last decade. What is so encouraging is that all the renewal and renovation have enhanced, rather than destroyed, the town's unique historical character. Boaters who pass Georgetown without a thought are quite simply missing one of the true gems of the South Carolina Low Country. Georgetown Lodging If it's time to take a night or two off from the live-aboard routine, historic Georgetown is ready to accommodate with a host of fine motels and bed-and-breakfast inns. Three of these inns are located in the heart of the historic district and are well worth your attention. The Dozier House (220 Queen Street, 843-527-1350 or 800-640-1350) is a delightfully rambling 1770-vintage house which offers three guest rooms. This writer and his mate found the Dozier House to be wonderfully informal, with a husband-wife innkeeper team (Tom and Chris Roach) who are just about as friendly as any hosts you will ever find. We were particularly taken with the superb breakfast consisting of fresh strawberries, coffee cake, and an egg, cheese, and sausage casserole. The Kings Inn (230 Broad Street, 843-527-6937 or 800-251-8805) is Georgetown's largest and arguably most eloquent inn. The house was built around 1825 and displays something of the magnificence so characteristic of the Georgetown rice culture. The inn's furnishings look as if they have been laid out for a photo shoot by Southern Living. Visitors interested in antiques and Revolutionary structures should check out the Kaminski House Museum (1003 Front Street, 843-546-7706). Filled with many period treasures, it features a fifteenth-century Spanish wedding chest and a Chippendale dining-room table, handcrafted in Charleston. The old home's interior features original floorings and moldings. Prince George Episcopal Church, Winyah, is located on the corner of Broad and Highmarket Streets. The congregation dates from 1721, but the building was finished in 1750. With its cracked bricks and mortar, the old church seems to exude an almost tangible atmosphere of age. Stroll through the graveyard to the left of the church. It affords an excellent view of the tower, added in 1824. Among the graveyard's interesting headstones are many dating from the 1700s. Finally, take a moment to go inside. The doors are usually open, and respectful visitors are welcome. Standing amid the old-style box pews, one can almost picture the planters and their wives dressed in their best Sunday broadcloth and taffeta, listening soberly to a long sermon. The Henning-Miller House, circa 1800, is located at the corner of Duke and Screven Streets. Like many Georgetown homes, this fine old building has its ghost story. The spirit, however, is most helpful. Tradition claims that during the British occupation of Georgetown, an officer staying at the house fell to his death on the main stairway. He is said to have lost his footing during a nighttime alarm. It is whispered that to this day, his ghost firmly grasps the shoulder of anyone who might trip on the stairs, saving that person from a fall. The charming Waterman-Kaminski House is located at 620 Highmarket Street. This old home, circa 1770, was the scene of two tragedies. There is the sad story of a young boy who pined away at an early age. His thin little spirit is well known. The upstairs room opening onto the central dormer was the scene of another kind of tragedy. An old tale speaks of a young girl who was in love with a sea captain but who discovered her lover to be untrue. Heartbroken, she took her own life in the upstairs room. On summer nights, her ghost is said to appear in the dormer window, patiently watching for the return of her faithless lover's ship. The Winyah Indigo Society Hall is located on the corner of Prince and Cannon Streets. Organized in 1740 as a social club for wealthy planters, the Winyah Indigo Society eventually established a free school, founded a library, and served as both a business and social organization. The society survives to this day and still meets on a regular basis. Just across the street from the Winyah Indigo Society Hall is the Morgan-Ginsler House. This building was used during the Civil War as a hospital for Union soldiers. It is said that strange noises have been heard from time to time in the dining room. There are those who claim that the ghostly noises are the sounds of Satan driving back the souls of the unfortunate soldiers who died there, making them relive their last few moments of misery on earth. This writer has a deep suspicion that a Southern sympathizer was the originator of this tale. Two of Georgetown's historical points of interest are at the foot of Cannon Street fronting onto Sampit River. To the left is the Red Store-Tarbox Warehouse. In 1812, Theodosia Burr Alston, daughter of politician Aaron Burr, sailed from the warehouse docks on an ill-fated voyage to New York. The ship on which she sailed ran into a fierce gale off North Carolina and was apparently lost at sea or wrecked somewhere on the coast. Although there has been much speculation about her fate (one compelling version of her story is found in Charles Harry Whedbee's Legends of the Outer Banks and Tar Heel Tidewater), nobody really knows what happened to Theodosia. Across the street from the warehouse is the Heriot-Tarbox House, one of the loveliest homes in Georgetown and the setting for what may well be the area's most touching legend. Legend of the Heriot-Tarbox House Some years before the Civil War, a wealthy family lived in this beautiful homeplace by the river. They had only one child, a daughter, on whom they showered all their love and attention. The girl was closely guarded by her parents to ensure a proper upbringing. She grew into a great beauty and was known by all the town's citizens for her gracious manners and shy nature. The young enchantress was very fond of pets and always kept several dogs of rare pedigree. One day as she was throwing balls into the yard to see which dog was the swiftest retriever, a young officer from a ship docked at her father's warehouse happened to walk by and was captivated by the girl's loveliness. He retrieved one of the balls that had fallen nearby and carried it up the broad steps to the shy maiden. Perhaps it was love at first sight. Before long, the two began to see each other on a regular basis, and their relationship blossomed with the passing of the days. The young woman's tutor became worried about the seriousness of the affair and spoke to the girl's father, who was outraged. What made a common ship's officer think he could pay court to his daughter? He marched straight on board the ship and demanded that the captain forbid any further contact between the two lovers. Returning home, the father informed his daughter that she was never to see the young man again. The captain did not take kindly to the father's demands, especially since the officer in question was his favorite nephew. Perhaps he aided the young couple. At any rate, the two lovers found a way to meet. When all those within the house were asleep, the girl would put a light in her upstairs window, and the young officer would know that all was safe. The two would then meet in the garden for a few brief but tender stolen moments. The young woman would wed no other man and continued to live in her parents' house. Whenever the officer's ship was in port, the couple held their romantic trysts. Then, without explanation, the officer's visits suddenly ceased. The heartbroken girl continued to place a lamp in her window every night. After a time, the light came to be a symbol of the love that she could never forget, yet that was doomed never to be. Eventually, she became a recluse and was rarely seen outside of the house. Following her parents' death, the servants and the dogs were her only companions. As the Civil War drew its dark wings about Georgetown, stealthy blockade runners used the light in the window of the Cannon Street house for navigation. The saddened but loyal woman still faithfully placed the lamp in the window every night. Most thought she was doing what she could to aid the Southern cause. Only a few knew the real reason for this strange practice. It was not long after the war that neighbors, alerted by barking dogs, discovered the poor woman's body in the house. She had apparently died of a heart attack. Some might say that it was a broken heart. In the years that followed, many families lived in the old house. Strange noises were heard from time to time, and a light was often seen shining from the upstairs window. One resident even saw the form of a beautiful girl walking down the front steps into the garden. Others told of seeing a ghostly visage surrounded by barking dogs. The house was finally abandoned for many years, during which it acquired a sinister reputation. In the 1930s, the house was restored to its former glory. It became one of the great showplaces of the Georgetown historical district. Its whitewashed walls and bright windows now look proudly over the harbor, recalling the grandeur of lost days. But there are many who will tell you that the sad ghost still maintains her lonely vigil each night from the upstairs window. Lest you think this story too fanciful, several years ago the late owner herself told this writer that there was indeed "a ghost in the attic." While the spirit never appeared to her, she had seen the lights on the second floor many times. Even on a warm summer morning, this tale seemed to bring a bit of a chill to the air.

Georgetown & Northern Lowcountry